So the Autumn/Winter 2010 collections have come and gone, and after mulling over the offerings the Viktor and Rolf show definitely stands out. I always find their work is at its best when they can marry the clothing, conceptual framework and runway show into one clear statement. Returning to the concept from their "Russian Doll" A/W 1999 collection, this season begins with Kristin McMenamy teetering down the runway in platform heels, dressed in layer upon layer of winter coats and dresses. Each layer is peeled off, unzipped, tucked, tied, re-zipped and sent off on another model. It follows the designers preoccupation with form and silhouette, exploring different types of volume in the same pieces- from built up, strained proportions to relaxed, heavy draping. (video from youtube, there is also a worthwhile video of the collection with interviews on style.com)
The original babushka collection (below) tended toward more of an installation and focused heavily on the concept. This season the designers have taken a newer, fresher approach as the clothes are interactive and infinitely more wearable. (images from the fashion spot)
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